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This is less a recipe and more a philosophy – the idea that a beautiful piece of seafood, dressed simply and thoughtfully, is one of the most generous and impressive things you can put on a table. At the store and at home, this is how we love to entertain. A platter of dressed seafood in the middle of the table, some crusty bread, a cold glass of wine and good company – that's the dream. These are our favourite combinations, but treat them as a guide. Use whatever is freshest and most beautiful on the day. The seafood is always the star – you're just helping it along. Dressed-up Seafood Serves as many as you like You'll need Pickled...

Growing up in a Greek household, taramasalata was never something you bought from a shop. Yiayia made it from scratch, and it was nothing like the pale pink stuff you find at the supermarket. The real deal is blushing, creamy, deeply tangy and full of flavour from the fish roe. We make a big batch on Good Friday at home – it's a Lenten staple in the Greek Orthodox tradition – and serve it with crusty bread, olives and a glass of something cold. At the store we sell a beautiful version, but making your own is something else entirely. It keeps well in the fridge for a few days, so it's a brilliant thing to have ready to go...